A Brief History of Hawaiʻi's Local Food Culture

 A. Weaver || August 7, 2022

A Brief History of Hawaiʻi's Local Food Culture

Hanalei, Kauaʻi (2020)

Polynesians Migration

The study of the origins of Polynesians and their isolated migrations, spanning thousands of miles to occupy islands across the Pacific, has been regarded by scholars as one of the most interesting puzzles in human history. Archaeological evidence has determined the launch of prehistoric migration to the first-occupied islands of Papua New Guinea to their period between 4000– 6000 BC and the last to the Hawaiian Islands between AD 500-700. Ancient Polynesian succession of island occupation produced new relationships with the land, the sea, and cosmogony. Through language, mythologies, and material culture, scholars have been able to piece together the establishment of Polynesian cultures and societies. 

Straddling the Tropic of Cancer amidst the waters, the Hawaiian Islands stand isolated in the middle of the North Pacific. The entire Hawaiian archipelago consists of 132 islands, islets, sand cays, and reefs that extend over a distance of 2,450 km (Kirch 1985, 22). The westerly leeward islands are comprised of small volcanic pinnacles and coral reefs, most of which have never been inhabited by Polynesian voyagers. The eight main Hawaiian Islands vary considerably in size and topography. The two smallest islands are known as Kahoʻolawe and Niʻihau. Both islands lie in the rain shadows of their larger counterparts, Maui and Kauaʻi. In order of size, the next islands are Lānaʻi, Molokaʻi, Oʻahu, and Hawaiʻi as the largest. Hawaiʻi island comprises nearly twice as much land mass as the other seven islands combined (Kirch 1985, 22). But how did Polynesians get to these islands?

The ancient Polynesians were known to be master navigators. For thousands of years, Polynesians built and sailed double-hulled canoes long distances to inhabit isolated islands peppered throughout the Pacific Ocean. Between AD 300 to 400, these large double-hulled canoes launched from the edge of the Marquesas Islands located in the Eastern Pacific. These canoes were held together with sennit lashings and were propelled by woven Pandanus sails. Their shape and size mimicked mountain peaks. More than 4,000 km of the vast Pacific Ocean would be crossed before the first volcanic peak of the Hawaiian Islands would be sighted by these early Polynesian voyagers. 

Polynesian voyagers would navigate the expansive Pacific Ocean guided only by the clues provided by nature. Through the rise and fall of the tides refracting from the shore to the position of the sun, stars, moon and constellations; each element aided in the success of island habitation. To determine the location of an island, ancient Polynesians relied on the Hōkūpaʻa (Fixed Star), known today as Polaris or the North Star (Harrington and Hymer 2013, 4). They also relied on their knowledge of migratory birds by examining their daily feedings and flight patterns. Studying migratory birds, such as the Kōleʻa (Pacific Golden Plover) and the Ruddy Turnstone, would indicate that land was close by. Pelagic birds, including petrels, shearwaters, and albatross would indicate direct food sources in the ocean. Ancient Polynesians would seek flocks of pelagic birds,which stipulated schools of fish, squid, and crustaceans to reveal locations where fishing would be most productive.

The deep hulls of the canoes were often filled with sustainable crop plants, dogs, pigs, and fowl (Kirch 1985, 1). Edible plants from around the islands made up more than two dozen newly introduced species; these species consisted of breadfruit and most importantly kalo (taro). Plants were used for food as well as to make clothing and tools. According to Harrington and Hymer (2013, 4), almost all the parts of a plant were used-- the bark, leaves, stems, flowers, and sap. Plants were also used to make garments, like leis, dyes, containers, and musical instruments (Kirch 1985, 22). Kalo, a staple of the Hawaiian diet, was cultivated extensively in lowland areas throughout the Hawaiian terrain. Rock-terraced fields networked with irrigation channels, which complemented the Hawaiians’ extremely productive and well-stocked saltwater fishponds (Harrington and Hymer 2013, 5). The Hawaiian people were the only Polynesian culture to produce and maintain shoreline saltwater fishponds. Fishponds consisted of mullet and milkfish and would provide areas of limu (seaweed) and other natural resources for easily accessible food.

The Hawaiian Islands saw an evolution of food production and acquisition strategies. The utilization of plentiful native and Polynesian-introduced resources allowed for the Hawaiian population to flourish. By AD 600-1100, Hawaiʻi’s population reached an estimated 20,000 people. A major increase in population size and density allowed the Hawaiian culture to evolve and differentiate itself from the rest of Polynesia, Melanesia, and Micronesia (Harrington and Hymer 2013, 6; Kirch 1985, 22). Part of Hawaiʻi’s uniqueness can be attributed to the abundant variety of the islands’ natural resources as well as their isolated locations. A major increase in population by AD 1100-1650 caused a growth in agricultural sustainability. The development of natural watersheds and land divisions extended from the tops of the mountains to the sea, causing a significant change in social and political structures. Ancient Hawaiian social structures were defined by natural boundaries giving rise to aliʻi, who were considered the stewards of each land division.

Waimea Bay, Kauaʻi (2019)

The Hawaiian Diet 

Then and Now

The diet of early Hawaiians was mainly centered around kalo (taro). Kalo, a thick and nutrient dense plant, can be prepped and cooked in different dishes and delicacies across not only Hawaiʻi, but across Oceania. Hawaiians often baked/steamed kalo in an imu (underground oven), and would transform the baked kalo into poi by pounding it with a bit of water, on a papa kuʻi ʻai (kalo board). This technique produces a thick and transportable substance known as paʻi ʻai. Additional water would be added to the freshly pounded paʻi ʻai and left to stand for days even weeks to create poi. Poi was considered to be a staple food of Hawaiians and is still the mainstay in today's local diet. Poi, with the additional canoe plants, as well as land and sea mammals provided the islanders with an abundant diet.

In 1778, British explorer Captain James Cook and his crew sailed in to Waiamea Bay on the island of Kauaʻi. They are noted to be the first Europeans to make physical contact with the islands and itʻs islanders. During this contact, many non-native/invasive species were introduced to the islands. Goats, ewe, boar, melons, pumpkins, and onions quickly spread across the Hawaiian archipelago. Non-native plants choked out their native counterparts while newly introduced animals brought with them diseases and pests.

It did not take long for Europeans and Euro-American to invade and eventually colonize the Hawaiian Islands and its inhabitants. Hawaiʻi served as a resting stop for traders and whalers sailing back and forth from Asia to America. Many haoles (foreigners) brought with them new economic endeavors using the Hawaiian Islands as their platform. By 1835, the first sugar plantation opened and production exploded. The mixture of Hawaiʻi’s heat, humidity, and rich volcanic soil created the perfect climate for growing sugar, pineapple, rice, and coffee. As the plantations started exploiting pineapple and producing sugar on a large scale, haole plantation owners found that labor-intensive agriculture required a larger-scale workforce.

In 1850, the first group of laborers would call Hawaiʻi their home. Chinese workers came to the Hawaiian Islands from Canton, also known as Guangzhou located in the Guangdong Province, to work as laborers on sugar and pineapple plantations. Between 1850 and 1887, an estimate of 50,000 Chinese traveled to the Hawaiian Islands to work in the fields. The newly established Chinese began to import familiar foods and drinks from their homeland. A combination of fish, herbs, and spices introduced Hawaiians to Cantonese dishes.

In 1868, the first group of Japanese laborers, known as gannenmono, or “first year folks” of the Meiji period arrived to the islands. Between 1868 and 1924, around 200,000 Japanese laborers, predominantly from Yamaguchi, Hiroshima, Fukuoka City, and Kumamoto, had arrived in the Hawaiian Islands to work on the plantations. Japanese immigrants introduced many familiar dishes to Hawaiians and Chinese populations. The iconic shave ice originally introduced by Japanese kakigōri, is one of Hawaiʻi’s iconic desserts. Other dishes like bentos, sashimi, tofu, and shoyu (soy sauce) are all a part of Hawaiʻi’s local food culture today.

In 1878, the first Portuguese immigrants came to the Hawaiian Islands from Azores, Madeira,  Portugal and Cape Verde. From 1878 to 1908 about 16,000 Portuguese laborers found work in Hawaiʻi’s unforgiving plantations. Portuguese brought with them dishes and recipes revolving around pork, tomatoes, and chili peppers, as well as oven baked breads, like our beloved Portuguese sweet bread and its deep fried counterpart, the malasada. In addition to their delicious meals, the Portuguese also introduced both the ‘ukulele and the style of strumming that would be instrumental in the creation of the steel guitar.

By 1903, Hawaiʻi would see an influx of Korean laborers. From 1903 to 1910, the Hawaiian Islands would house about 7,500 Korean laborers. Both Kimchi and sweet and salty barbecued marinated meats, like kalbi ribs, would become Hawaiʻi’s food culture staples.

Lastly, in 1906, the first Filipino laborers arrived to the Hawaiian Islands to work on the growing plantations. From 1906 to 1930 more than 112,000 Filipinos would arrive to the islands. Filipinos brought with them iconic dishes such as pork and peas, vinegar, and garlic-based dishes. Filipino dishes like pork adobo and cascaron are considered the cornerstones of Hawaiʻi’s local food today.

It is worth noting that while many plantation laborers brought the flavors, spices, and dishes of their homeland, Hawaiʻi wouldn’t be the same without these historic meals. Today, what makes up Hawaiian food is a hybrid of many ethnic groups. It is not uncommon to find a Japanese dish being served next to a Portuguese dish at a restaurant or party. You can get chili dolloped with mayonnaise at the same spot that serves Spam musubi and Chicken Hekka. Just like the people that make up the Hawaiian Islands, you can’t assign just one ethic group to local food; it is the combination of cultures, history, and aloha that makes local food what it is.

This blog is a platform to highlight the cultural groups that make Hawaiʻi’s food culture beautiful and unique. I do want to address that the laborer groups that were not highlighted above will be addressed in later posts.

Hūlō!

A.Weaver

Photos by A. Weaver